SQUA.RE Guide: Top 10 Men’s Collections for Fall/Winter 2009-2010

This Fall/Winter, designers convey brilliant sartorialism, exquisite designs and fantastic fabric combinations, all the while staying true to masculinity, “modern traditions” and luxury. From the sharp blazers and coats of Dior Homme, to the soft silhouettes of Lanvin and the interesting prints of Etro and Jil Sander, from Prada’s laser-cuts leather tops to the eminent monochromatic trend of the season.

Dior Homme

Designer Kris van Assche named this collection “Angel”, and the results truly justified the title, 80s Angel. From waistcoats in strong black and white shades, oversized t-shirts with large messages (a 80s staple), exquisitely tailored coats and fitted suits (a Dior Homme signature), and wide pants all in black, white and black and white. Van Assche’s presentation on the Dior man is refreshing, creative and staying completely true to the house’s finger prints.

Lanvin

Lucas Ossendrijver, the gifted men’s designer of the legendary French house yet again revealed a-beyond superb and delicate collection for the Lanvin man. Very soft and “silky” features are the words that come to mind, and this Fall was no exception. With beautiful trench coats, the most luxurious fabrics, and monochromatic tones of black, luxurious navy blue and sophisticated light grey all ruled the collection. The soft touches of scarves tied in bows and the twist on men’s tux (which is a label signature), all displaying a sober outlook to reality. Lanvin has always stayed true to luxury.

Raf Simons

The collection’s inspirations were vanity and duality, in the sense of sartorially precise suits that present man’s best features to the world and the portraying contrast face-offs with the conventional and the not conventional. Raf Simons successfully depicted the latter with such pieces as camel coats with flannel lining, knit cut-off sweaters over fitted dress shirts, and black blazers with divergent white sleeves. Raf Simons never fails to interestingly mesmerize the fashion world.

Etro

Kean Etro has always been the kind of designer who uses philosophy is his design, and quite successful at it. “In Vino Veritas” was the title of the collection, and the philosophy behind it; people sitting together, drinking wine, and tell the truth. Red was surely the dominant color, in Merlot, Brunello, Barolo, crimson, light, dark, and fiery red. The Fall collection also had a subdued edgy art to the prints on sweaters, shirts, coats and suits. It was definitely the most “reserved” Etro collection I’ve seen for a while, particularly in comparison with last season’s exotica, definitely in keeping with the current climate, yet with the Etro sense of passion-infused fun.

Jil Sander

“I wanted to present something powerful” unapologetically declared Raf Simons, and that he did with this unsurpassed Fall collection, almost creating an Edwardian feel throughout, but in the ultra modern sense of Simons and true to the feel of Jil Sander. Coats and jackets embodying the hourglass shape, the most intriguing, almost hand-painted like prints and impeccable fabric variations; all thanks to Simons’ peerless fabric research.

Dries van Noten

Keeping the current financial climate and its effect on fashion and design, one would expect a sense of tradition and sobriety. While the Dries van Noten Fall collection embodied those elements, yet most definitely was not dreary, the 40s reference with a sense of “traditional modernity” that is always associated with the Belgian designer. “It’s interesting to work with restrictions. It makes us more creative” explained Van Noten regarding his current design approach. I simply adored the colors featured in monochrome, the all somber green and all burgundy tones, were definitely refreshing this season.

Prada

The usually fragile sense Miuccia Prada often portrays is not to be seen this season, instead everything is toughened up. “Survival.  And to survive, you have to be strong” said Prada of her new Fall/Winter collection. The strong and serious feel of the collection was demonstrated in sophisticatedly laser-cut leather tops and long coats… Then studs followed; Studded shoes, pants, shirts and coats, a rush of hardware on clothes, all reflect the everyday man in hardship.

Louis Vuitton

Designer Paul Helbers has created a great collection for men this Fall, and the bags surely had a great and refreshing pinch. “The traveling wardrobe of an African king” said the menswear designer of his Fall inspiration, while this influence is quite subtle and extremely modern, one can sense hints of it in the cuts and shapes of the clothes, the prints of very large scarves and the various exotic skins used in the Louis Vuitton monogramed bags and luggage. The deep blue and shades of red are fantastic and utterly gorgeous.

Jean-Paul Gaultier

Certainly one of the most fun collections for men this Fall/Winter, Jean-Paul Gaultier delivers typical Gaultier masterful sartorialism and cutting infused with cool and funk. Gaultier greatly diffuses 70s punk with afros, clashing white with black so harmoniously. The coats, trenches and jackets would definitely give great attitude to the collection. It is undeniably joyous and optimistic.

Rick Owens

The designer ruling the avant-garde and creator of the freak in us, Rick Owens delivers a superb and above par collection filled with sharply cut long blazers, sleeveless coats, rough bomber jackets and an amazing fur vest. The collection certainly had a “mean” vibe to it, almost sci-fi military look. Rick Owens surely stands out as a fashion designer and is beyond brilliant at what he does, “Celebrate the freak, create the creature” as he puts it.

All photos are courtsey of Men.Style.com