Crème Fresh at AIFW featured the works of 3 up-and-coming, young designers at Trouw, Amsterdam: Lotte van Keulen, Elise Kim and Ellis Biemans.
LOTTE VAN KEULEN: A self-described ‘Fashion Scientist,’ van Keulen begins her process by collecting music, art, images and other creative raw material that draws here, and from this collage, she pulls out a theme that inspires her to begin designing a new collection. Signature elements in van Keulen’s work include combinations of contrasting elements: hard structures and fluid draping; masculine and feminine; and light and dark colors. This particular collection used a very interesting array of fabrics, from leather and velvet to lycra, the end result being a cohesive collection with van Keulen’s signature all over it.
ELISE KIM: Elise Kim’s usage of leather and synthetic strips was seen in nearly all of her pieces, but in diverse ways. Whether running down a pair of skinny leather pants, draped around the shoulder of a white body-con dress, or seen across the arms and back of an outfit resembling a formal skirt suit, the strips were reincarnated time and after time in ways that surprised. The exposed zippers and severe hair poufs provided the requisite supplementary hardware to the pastel colors used.
ELLIS BIEMANS: Ellis Biemans’ collection can best be described as Rainbow Equestrian. With silks, satins, leather and lace in a azure blue-burnt sienna-white color palette, Biemans was able to expertly combine the aforementioned, very different colors and textures quite effectively. Slightly reminiscent of the equestrian harnesses seen in Jean Paul Gaultier‘s last collection for Hermès, all models wore some variation of hardware – either the harness itself (across the body, across the shoulders, blind siders on the head) or jewelry pieces with the same design. Hair and make-up remained minimal, and rightfully so, because there were several other interesting things going on.
Images by Peter Stigter