Though the show was almost in the suburbs, and at 9:30 am, the mood was instantly lifted with the opening bars of Queen’s Bohemian Rhapsody this morning. And spirits stayed up the whole way through as Junya Watanabe treated us to a particularly playful spring collection.
Before the ticket arrived for the show today, a mail went out informing us that the venue was small. Then the ticket arrived, informing us that the venue was the cavernous Beaux Arts de Paris. Things are never that simple chez Comme des Garçons; the house had built a scaled-down reclaimed wood cabin inside the huge space, making it indeed small.
Yohji Yamamoto’s spring 2019 collection was given a name, which is a rare thing in the world of Yamamoto; he called it Love Song. The invitation came packaged in a 33” record sleeve (though sadly no record), an allusion to the title itself and to Yamamoto’s own increasing love affair with music
Today Rick Owens presented his womenswear spring collection, the sister collection to spring menswear under the same moniker, Babel. Where menswear took its inspiration from the never-to-be-constructed constructivist dream tower conceived by Vladimir Tatlin, under order from Lenin, today we were looking to mountain witches
The Palais de Tokyo is as unexpected as they come for a Dries Van Noten show venue, and the particular space they chose within the Palais de Tokyo was just as rare. The swooping gallery, with its glass ceiling, is usually reserved for art shows, but as the Palais de Tokyo is between art shows right now, the timing was perfect, and our lady was really up to her elbows in paint tonight on the runway.
For spring, Jeremy Scott served up a plate of his familiar fare — pop, cartoons, moto, camo, neon — with extra sex appeal. He even delved into his archives for Polaroids from his club kid days…
The history of Dapper Dan, dubbed the Tailor of Harlem, and Gucci was a sordid tale in the 80s and 90s involving a string of knock-offs and lawsuits. It culminated with a counter knock-off in 2017, when Alessandro Michele put a look identical to a Dapper Dan creation on the runway. Turns out that was an olive branch as Gucci and Dapper Dan have now made both peace and a collaboration.
The confident handwriting of Frida Kahlo’s diary watches over the entrance to the display of her possessions at London’s V&A in Frida Kahlo: Making Her Self Up (until November 4, 2018). It almost doesn’t matter what’s written in Spanish; the words themselves seduce you.
After the shock news came out last week that Dries Van Noten had sold his majority stake in the company to Spanish luxury group Puig, there was palpable expectation in the air before the show. The opening look breezed onto the runway in a pair of swim shorts, announcing the second shock of the week from Van Noten, his collaboration with Verner Panton. Verner Panton is considered one of the most influential designers of the twentieth century.
As big fans of Yohji Yamamoto, with his unflinching view of fashion and dedication to a craft that he has truly mastered, it is hard to bring criticism into play. The collection today had some brilliant moments, and overall was successful in pushing the Yamamoto man forward, but some of the clothes were hard to understand. The prints were incredible, with full color geisha girls and pin-ups cavorting in floral backdrops and set off against animal prints.