It’s not enough to land the fly in the right spot.
– 2017 was a strange year of eating for me. That’s because my most exciting destinations had little to do with food . That’s not to say that I didn’t have any good food
It’s no secret that I have been an unamused critic of restaurant lists and ratings. Much of food media has succumbed to the pressures of collecting clicks, sponsorships, and advertisement
– Plums, ashen from the hearth, bleeding into gauzy muslin. Figs, syrupy and charred, nestled in a flakey frame
– I took the lessons I learned in 2016 and applied them to 2017. Staying close to familiar quarters, I continued to bet on sure winners.
– It has been over a dozen years since I started recording and reporting here.
Chefs: I challenge you to remove one (and for some of you, three) items from each dish.
– It always seems to end before it begins.
– Alexandre Couillon lives on a small island off the west coast of France called Noirmoutier. For decades, there was only one road on and off the island called the Passage du Gois
– “Give back more than you take.” Those are the words that Jock Zonfrillo inscribed on the dry-erase board in the kitchen, which every guest chef at the Twelve Days of Christmas is invited to sign at the end of their dinner. Every year, there is usually one chef who pleasantly surprises me. This year, it was a 41 year-old Scotsman from Australia.