It’s no secret that I have been an unamused critic of restaurant lists and ratings. Much of food media has succumbed to the pressures of collecting clicks, sponsorships, and advertisement
– Plums, ashen from the hearth, bleeding into gauzy muslin. Figs, syrupy and charred, nestled in a flakey frame
– I took the lessons I learned in 2016 and applied them to 2017. Staying close to familiar quarters, I continued to bet on sure winners.
– It has been over a dozen years since I started recording and reporting here.
Chefs: I challenge you to remove one (and for some of you, three) items from each dish.
– It always seems to end before it begins.
– Alexandre Couillon lives on a small island off the west coast of France called Noirmoutier. For decades, there was only one road on and off the island called the Passage du Gois
– “Give back more than you take.” Those are the words that Jock Zonfrillo inscribed on the dry-erase board in the kitchen, which every guest chef at the Twelve Days of Christmas is invited to sign at the end of their dinner. Every year, there is usually one chef who pleasantly surprises me. This year, it was a 41 year-old Scotsman from Australia.
– Conveying a sense of place has become a motif among restaurants and chefs. And what makes so many destination restaurants unique is actually being there. Local ingredients, landscapes, weather, traditions, history, politics, religion, and language all converge to form culture, culinary and otherwise
– On the eighth night of the Twelve Days of Christmas, the hills above Los Angeles were on fire. Not two months earlier, it had been the hills of Sonoma and Napa, where fires had spread quickly and destroyed indiscriminately.