‘My goal with this show was to use the new work and the old work to show that I’ve been doing the same thing for 40 years,’ says Roy McMakin, whose work ranges from full-scale houses to dressers he’s bought in vintage stores to bronze casts of vases found decades ago to photographs (sometimes of dressers) to other photographs (of other stuff) to drawings (frequently of dressers) to a general sense that he’s up to something deeply profound. The conceptual artist is talking from his San Diego home about his recently opened New York exhibition at Garth Greenan Gallery.
Mood board: Since arriving at the label, Jason Basmajian has nurtured the idea of a tailored jacket with a sportier flair. His clothes have an intergenerational appeal. Inspiration for A/W 2019 came from a visit to the Oceania exhibition at the Royal Academy in London late last year which marked 250 years since Captain James Cook’s first voyage to the Pacific.
Frieze is hoping to make it in Hollywood with the art fair’s inaugural Los Angeles edition, which launches at Paramount Pictures Studios from 14-17 February. But can it catch its big break in the city of broken dreams?
Mood board: Kim Jones is getting into the stride of applying the majesty of couture to men’s ready-to-wear. Until now he has advocated street-savvy savoir-faire yet his nascent work at Dior focuses much on its founder’s heritage. For A/W 2019 he drew on his time as a gallerist
Mood board: Husband-and-wife designers Luke and Lucie Meier looked to create balance, pairing sharp tailoring with a softened approach to building a modern wardrobe. The cerebral minimalism of the label’s founder has been through a few hands in the last decade and its current gatekeepers are closer to defining their own epoch
Mood board: The recent drift towards dissecting the archives to define new design has led to some tricky terrain. Raf Simons sent poster-size invitations to his A/W 2015 show that read: ‘To the archives, no longer relevant’ – yet his collection upped the ante on self-referencing. Demna Gvasalia of Vetements and Balenciaga happily reissues the best of the 1990s no matter who might have done it first.
Mood board: As the war against plastic intensifies, the show invitations for A/W 2019 have been a soberer affair. Often a thickness of card or the gloss of a font will give away the mood of the season
Among watch collecting’s less-publicised fields, for obvious reasons, is the erotic timepiece.
Mood board: Our lives are folded into our phones. Wallets, iPods, address books, diaries – all of them on one device. And so, across fashion and into the streets, a new accessory is taking over – the small pochette, big enough for a phone and a portable charger, but nothing more
Mood board: A single white glove, studded with crystal.